Leeuwarden travel guide - quaint North Netherlands getaway

2 Weeks ago, at the end of May 2026, I got to revisit Leeuwarden in the north of the Netherlands after 20 years and was pleasantly surprised by this diverse city. In collaboration with Visit Leeuwarden, I discovered that this Friesland capital is a hidden gem full of history, street art and charm!

Did you know that Leeuwarden was born in 1435 when 3 ancient terps (man-made mounds used by early Frisians to stay safe from floods) merged into 1 vibrant city? Leeuwarden is surrounded by water because this area was once part of the Middle Sea (Middelzee), a shallow estuary that gave the city direct access to the sea.

This made it an important trading port for centuries, exporting agricultural goods and importing luxuries. While it wasn’t a major VOC (Dutch East India Company) hub like Amsterdam, its strategic location helped it thrive during the Dutch Golden Age through regional trade networks, resulting in the city's many canals.

Leeuwarden travel guide & map - The Netherlands

To me, Leeuwarden felt like a mix of Amsterdam and Leiden’s beauty, but without the crowds! Quaint canals, rich culture and relaxed vibes, and I have plenty of tips to share for when you decide to visit Leeuwarden too.

It's the perfect Dutch destination for a staycation, a weekend getaway, or mid-week break, as there’s so much to enjoy in, and around the city as well.

Save this Leeuwarden travel guide, complete with custom map and plenty of itinerary ideas, for your own visit! Find all my fave spots marked for your convenience here below;

How to get there?

Leeuwarden is the 2nd biggest city in the north of the Netherlands, and the capital of Friesland.

Just a 1,5 hour drive from Amsterdam airport and 2 - 2,5 hours by public transport, with direct train connections.

When visiting, I would recommend staying for at least 2 - 3 days, because with so many nice activities, terraces, shops and sights to see, staying overnight is a must. Leeuwarden is easy to reach by car and has several parking garages throughout the city.

What to do? - Leeuwarden Activities

Start your exploration at the Leeuwarden visitor center. Grab a free cup of coffee, pick up sightseeing tips, book tours and get a customized itinerary tailored to your interests. It’s a welcoming spot in the city center to kick off your trip.

• Don’t miss climbing the renowned Oldenhove tower, the leaning icon of Leeuwarden, just opposite to the visitor center. You can park your car easily in the underground parking garage here. Construction began in 1529 under Jacob van Aaken, but the tower started sinking crookedly almost immediately due to the soft soil. Builders tried to fix it, but they finally gave up in 1533, leaving it unfinished and leaning more than the Tower of Pisa (about 2 meters off-center). The tower was meant to be at least twice as high!

• Throughout 2026, the tower is under restoration with scaffolding, but remains open to visitors until October 24. Opening hours are 13:00 to 17:00 (last climb at 16:30) and tickets cost €3.50 for adults. You can take the elevator to the first floor and then climb 140 steps, or go full stairs for 183 steps total. The panoramic views over the city and surrounding countryside are worth it.

• Another historic highlight in Leeuwarden is the Blokhuispoort, a 16th-century former prison transformed into a lively creative hub. Now it houses a restaurant, a hostel, unique shops and artist ateliers. Unfortunately the shops were closed when I visited on a Sunday, but am certainly coming back for this!

• Take time to wander the charming shopping streets, narrow alleys and lively city squares. Admire the historic buildings that reflect Leeuwarden’s wealthy trading past. And of course the canals that create such a cute atmosphere and are highly photogenic.

• Enjoy the many terraces by the water, the terrace boats and stylish restaurants (I’ve listed my top picks further below). Leeuwarden’s dining scene is very diverse and combines historic settings with modern flavors well.

• In 2026, the city celebrates 150 years of Mata Hari, Leeuwarden's most famous and intriguing resident of all time, with different events running until August 7. Think: art exhibitions, dance performances, theatre, parties, and special tours. We've experienced the immersive 'Echoes of Mata Hari' light exhibition in her house of birth, currently the location of A. Zelle hoeden en petten magazijn. Worth a visit and free of charge, you just have to reserve a time slot in advance, because of limited seats.

• Check the full program on the Visit Leeuwarden website for more anniversary highlights: 150 years Mata Hari.

• For culture lovers a must-visit in Leeuwarden is the Fries Museum! A modern building overlooking the market square, where you can also see the permanent exhibition 'The Lives of Mata Hari'. This explores the 4 sides of Margaretha Zelle (Mata Hari’s real name): mother, divorced wife, exotic dancer, and spy. Born in Leeuwarden in 1876, her story still fascinates over a century after her execution.

• I really liked the architecture of the museum, with a nice café and great city views. And the Fries museum currently also has an interactive street art expo, called the 'The Wall is Yours', letting visitors engage creatively with local art, which I loved. You can leave your own mark, get creative and enjoy the live DJ.

• For a deeper dive you can also join a Mata Hari tour of A Guide to Leeuwarden. Or go on a street art tour with them leading you past 50 murals in the city center with more info about the city's history too! You can even join a free group tour once a week.

• But you can also do this 5,5 km city tour on your own with a street art map that can be purchased for €3 at the visitor center. Leeuwarden is so creative that even the trash bins are decorated!

• Or use the map to wander outside the city by bike to find 100 more artworks and murals throughout the region. Get an impression of Leeuwarden's art through this gallery:

• Renting an e-bike to explore the tranquil Friesland countryside is also highly recommended. For a longer stay, I can definitely recommend visiting cute villages like Wergea, Park Vijversberg or one of the tranquil nature areas like de Groote Wielen or National Park de Alde Feanen. The flat landscape makes cycling easy and incredibly scenic. You can even follow the Elfsteden route or several other cycling routes via this page of Visit Leeuwarden.

• Alternatively, rent a boat to explore the city from the water. Gliding through the canals offers a whole new perspective on the historic architecture. There are many options and routes available at the Leeuwarden visitor center.

• Relax in the beautiful Prinsentuin city park, a green oasis in the heart of Leeuwarden. It hosts free outdoor concerts several times a year, especially on Sunday afternoons during summer. Bring a picnic blanket and enjoy live music in this peaceful setting, you can check the latest program on VisitLeeuwarden.

Where to stay? - Boutique Hotel De Olde Signorie

For an unforgettable overnight, stay at De Olde Signorie. We slept 2 nights in the Superior Salon of this elegant logement, located in a historic building.

The friendly owners live at the top floor and rent out 3 luxurious fully equipped bedrooms on the ground floor. Here you can sleep on a premium mattress in style, like a baron(ess).

Get an impression through my own pictures:

The beautifully decorated rooms feature high ceilings, chandeliers, and everything you need, like A/C, a safe, Nespresso machine in the room, premium coffee machine in the hallway and free parking on site as well.

The hosts made us feel right at home and the hotel's central location is ideal for exploring everything on foot, just around the corner from Blokhuispoort and the city's cutest canals.

Where to eat? - Leeuwarden Restaurant Guide

Leeuwarden’s food scene was a true a highlight and certainly surprised me. Not only is the offering abundant, but also very diverse and stylish. Here are my top recommendations from the restaurants we tested:

• De Hofdame: Delicious dishes in an iconic and historic setting. Eat indoors or on 1 of the 2 outdoor terraces in the city center.

• De Gouverneur: Casual fine dining in style, inside or on the vibrant outdoor terrace.

• Anne & Max: Delicious dishes, cakes and extensive breakfast plates served in a relaxed setting with one of the best terraces of the city.

• Vino en Verder: Excellent wines paired with jummy bites, surrounded by street art in a rugged historic setting.

• The Meat Room: Dry-aged steaks, wagyu beef, and more for high-quality meat lovers.

• Grand Café Jan in Wergea: Great atmosphere with locally brewed beer and wines, located in a cute village just outside Leeuwarden.

• Their Michelin-starred restaurant Oan Tafel next door is a must for high-end dining, which I still have to come back for!

• Huize Kwast: Fantastic high tea, lunch, dinner, and cocktails right along the canal.

And for all you foodies: don’t miss the local cookies called Fryske Dúmkes and the scenic canal terraces and terrace boats. The most atmospheric ones are located along Kelders, over de Kelders, and Nieuwestad. They will surely add that extra authentic touch to your visit.

Leeuwarden truly surprised me with its quaint atmosphere and versatility! After 20 years away, I finally fell in love with this northern Dutch city.

It offers the perfect balance of history, culture, nature, and great food without feeling overwhelming.

I hope was able to show you how unique Leeuwarden is, and why combining the city with the countryside makes the perfect weekend or midweek getaway. A great alternative to the busier cities in the Netherlands, such as Rotterdam and Amsterdam. For even more info about the city and the event calendar, check VisitLeeuwarden.

And for more Dutch inspiration check my other blogs on the Netherlands page.

Did you know this gem in the north of the Netherlands already or have you visited Leeuwarden yet? Share your experiences or questions in the comments! I’d love to hear what you think and hope you will find my experiences, custom map and tips useful for your own Leeuwarden getaway.